May
9 - on the road between San Clemente and Pontelatone. We had a long, steep downhill
that I found a bit scary, especially when, as Kris and I rounded the final switchback,
we discovered a horse in the middle of the road, being led by a man wildly gesturing
for us to stop. This led to a strange encounter - the man, his wife and two frankly
obnoxious kids were all there. The wife spoke English and, after asking us how
we liked the place ("It's beautiful," we said, "we like it very
much") replied in a bitter voice "Well, I hate it." She wanted
to live in the US, where she had lived years ago. I couldn't help thinking of
Madame Bovary - it was a somewhat creepy encounter. At any rate, soon after that
we entered a town and stopped for supplies at a little store, where the people
were extremely friendly and helpful and gave us directions to an Agriturismo nearby.